I earlier tweeted that Sarah Burton's collection for the house of Alexander McQueen is " just a review of the brand's past seasons' best" and has "no wow factor." I stand by my first statement that the silhouette, technique, and fantasy was almost lifted up from the past collections as headed by Lee himself. It is not really a bad thing, come to think of it. Where else best to start but to pick up where the leader has left of. Especially if the shoe she is filling in is considered by many as a fashion genius. It makes me wonder if the silhouettes are homage to connect the past as a medium to claim what could be her future? Or a business strategy to sell new McQueens (without McQueen) by sticking to it's DNA? Besides, Burton has worked side by side long enough with the Man of the House that this could be her way of claiming what was originally her successful ideas all along. It's a thought which is hard to verify but a point to ponder, nevertheless. A point proved by the tale of the collection which started with a strong all white statement - a slashed jacket shoulders , probably a symbol of re-birth. I am getting a strong subtext of takeover from the narrative which is further proved by that slashing- McQueen's signature is hard, peaked shoulders. As if it was saying that "If Lee was once the in-house Wizard, Burton now claims the throne as the in-house Mother Witch!" Add that to the fact the narrative resonates with a pagan Mother Earth-ly spirit of blooms, wheat, butterflies, and birds. And about that "no wow factor" thing, I honestly missed on checking the detailed photos of the collection before I tweeted that and after a careful inspection of the sick and laborious detailing, it deserves an all caps "WOW!" I am actually expecting her to pull a Frida Gianini (stripping off the Tom Ford-ness in Gucci and succeeded in showing her own version of sexy instead). Now that we know she can replicate the McQueen craftmanship and shape, I am more interested to see her own version of the theme and the genius the house is known for. Let's just hope that the slashing of the jacket sleeves is the start of a new chapter inside the House of McQueen.
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